Re-measurement
Instrumentation
Mast rotation
Painting a Marstrom boat
Spinnaker pole questions
Tornado Plans, Wooden and Home construction
Self tacking jib system
Main sheet systems
Rigging Instructions
Spinnaker launching tubes
Spinnaker details
"re-measurement"
My brother recently bought a second hand tornado, a Reg White from
1992. He put new sails on it complying with the rules for the new
rig. Because we want to go to the Round Texel, we need to get a
valid measurement certificate. We returned the old certificate from
1997 to the KNWV (National Authority) together with an authorisation
for payment of the the re-registration fee. They claim that the
boat has to be remeasured because it has not been registered for
the last three years by the previous owner. This is in my opinion
in contradiction with the Class Rules (4g) in which is stated that
a re-measurement is not necessary. Can anyone clear this up ?? Why
would it be nescessary to remeasure an 11 year old Reg White Tornado?
Rule 4(g) just states that change of ownership does not automatically
invalidate the measurement certificate.
However, according to rule 5(f) "All certified boats shall be
liable to re-measurement at the discretion of the National Authority
...", which obviously happened in your case.
"Instrumentation"
What instrumentation are allowed on the Tornado ? I gather that
an compass are allowed, but todays compasses are able to calculate
mean wind direction and has other functions as well. Is this still
an compass, and thus allowed ?
I could not find any references in the rules about instrumentation,
so I gather anything else is forbidden ?
Rule 20.d: Electronic devices that provide timing and heading memory
but which do not receive data are permitted.
(-> Compass receives no data, is allowed)
(-> GPS receives data, is forbidden)
Rule 20.e: EPIRB devices are permitted. Other electronic devices
are prohibited.
I think, calculating mean wind direction does not belong to "timing
and heading memory", thus it belongs to rule 20.e and is forbidden.
"mast rotation"
What is the story with mast rotation controls. I am new to tornado
sailing but all the cats I have raced in the past need to have the
rotator control lead out to be able to reach it on the trapeze.
Many of the torns I have seen do not have this. Surely the rotation
is not just set and left?
Multiple answers:
1. It is most likely the boats you have seen are not top competitive
boats. Rotation control is very important to speed and balance;
more rotation gives more power and more pointing, less rotation
gives less power and more speed, but less pointing.
2. .Respect this mast rotation system it is very powerfull and
about ½ the speed/momentum of the whole boat and can capsise
you if you don't pull it in, in the gusts (less rotation).
3. As per the rotation, you must still let the mast fully rotate
down wind and ease the luff tension with the spinnaker up to prevent
the mast breaking. However you only need to lock the mast around
in the super light breezes any thing over 8 knots I remove the ropes.
"Painting a Marstrom boat"
Does anybody know what type (brand) of paint is on a (`98) Marstrom
boat from the factory? Any suggestions as to what type of paint
I should use for refinishing (VC teflon epoxy, Awlgrip (or Awlgrip
2000, Imron)?
Multiple answers
1. Your boat would be painted with Spice Hecker paint. As to what
grade of white I am unsure. Your local car body repairer should
have it.
2. Mine is being painted with International two-component paint
called Perfection, I guess that it's a bit stronger and more flexible
than normal car paint which is commonly used. The hulls get three
layers,but I've also sanded it all the way down to the base layer.
Warning this takes a very long time so don't do this untill this
season is finished.
"Spinnaker pole questions"
I need technical info on how/where to do the holes at the bow for
the spin. pole bridle.
Putting the spinnaker pole attachments into the bow is quite simple.
I'm not a expert but mine are still in nice and strong.
Drill a hole from the direction of the tip of the pole into the
inner side of the hull 50mm from the tip, 20mm from the deck. Don't
forget to angle the drill from the spinnaker pole tip. Do not drill
right through the out side of the hull. I have done 3 now and each
hull has been different inside. Some hollow some foam some bog.
I then put a end of a turnbuckle into the hull (leave the nut on
for added grip). If the hull is hollow or foam dig a bit out ad
turn the hull upside down so you dont fill the hull up. Once the
turnbuckle end is in fill the hole up with epoxy and bubbles to
thicken it. Good to do a far bit of taping as its quite messy.
"Tornado Plans"
1. Does anybody know where I can obtain plans to build a Tornado.
2. is it possible to purchase Tornado plans any more?
The International Sailing Federation should still have plans for
home construction of a wood boat. Try info@sailing.org
"Self tacking jib system"
I own an old Tornado and therefore an old rig. I have modified my
jib to meet the new rig rules and am now searching for plans or
information on the jib track system. In particular how wide is it?
Is the curve a part of a circle? If so what is the radius? If not
what type of curve is it? How is the car held in position at either
end of this track?
Multiple answers:
1. you can see some pictures of the setup on a page of new
rig photos You will have to decide for a track length yourself.
120 cm is probably max length, while some uses lengths down to 100,
or even 90 cm. Holes are drilled in the rack for stops, using clevis
pins. Check with some of the sources on the Sources
page (Marstrom, Landenberger, Ullman), also a Formula 18 track,
or a standard skiff track from Ronstan, can all work. All of these
are prebent so no worry about the curve.
2. We use a standard Ronstan I-beam track (Track Profile - RF385)
with their 4 wheel car (part number RF334)
See http://www.ronstan.com/marine/
Our track is now only about 900mm long and we use clevis pins as
stops. Drill through the side of the track and insert at either
end. I think the part number for these are RF263. also use split
rings in these to secure (RF686). Also I think the name of the track
is '18 foot skiff jib track' It is pre bent and used redily on the
18 foot skiffs. It will need to be cut down to the desired lenght.
"Main sheet systems"
What is the consensus on main sheet purchase for the new rig (converting
to rear sheeting from centre tramp sheeting)? Anyone tried the new
8:1 low profile system from Harken? What's the best purchase?
Multiple answers:
1. We have just converted over to the new rig and are still using
the 8:1 system, with 4:1 on the back of the boom and 2:1 along the
boom, with centre sheeting from the tramp. So far we have had no
issues with the system. We did find that the new sails require more
sheet tension upwind than the previous sails, which puts more compression
on the boom, so we are looking at changing from our smaller section
boom to a standard Marstrom section boom.
2. There is no 'best' there is only what works for you and your
crew. 8:1 is kinda normal, but consider 9:1 if you need it, or 7:1
if your crew used to sail a Flying Dutchman (that's a joke.....).
Harken makes complete catamaran systems so if you wnat to go to
boom-end sheeting, you don't have to go hunting to make pieces match
and trying to figure out load data.
"Rigging Instructions"
My new (to me) Reg White is sitting on its trailer. The former owner
spent several hours going over setup and rigging, but it is complicated!
This is my first cat. Is there a manual somewhere?
Owch; as you can tell by the lack of responses, there is no such
thing as a Tornado manual. The boat was designed as an Olympic boat,
with multiple builders, with enough room in the Rules to allow individual
rigging preferences, so there is no one way to do it. The boat was
never intended as a 'first catamaran' so you need to become very
friendly with an existing owner to sort out your questions. If the
builder of your boat is still in business, he may have his own assembly
manual, but even if he does, its likely to have changed over the
years.
"Spinnaker launching tubes"
I am currently organising a fabric spinnaker tube with firbeglass
mouth. Any suggestions on attachment points (for mouth), angle at
with it should be set, mouth size, etc. would be appreciated. Also
ideas on retrival lines etc.
Tube mouth should be about 2500mm from the front end of the main
beam, angle at witchit should be set, 45° might be ok, but does
not matter much. Mouth size, about 200x250mm² will work fine.
It all depends on whether you want to have 2 or 3 patches (attachement
points of the retrieval line) in the spinnaker. If you use three,
a shorter tube is possible, but you need a larger mouth.
"Spinnaker details"
Trying to find more details, photos and instructions about spinnaker,
halyard and sheets systems and positioning. Can someone explain
me, how complete spinnaker is constructed: sheets, halyard, tack,
boom & etc.
you can find more information on the New
Rig Photos page. Additionally, you might want to download the
class rules, to make sure, your boat is still a Tornado afterwards.
The class rules have been left open on this so that the class can
find the best ways to do it without being limited too much by rules.
Besides that, I can only recommend to get in contact with an experienced
sailor near to you, who will surely help you with the details. Explaining
every detail
via e-mail is impossible. The other way to find help is to look
for a newer Formula 18 catamaran, all of the spinnaker and jib equipment
ideas come from the Tornado so you can see how they work.
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